I grew up in a little place called Staten Island, NY. Italian bakeries and delis are in abundance there, so my family usually had some of these cookies in stock for get-togethers. Despite being a Filipino American family, it’s a household favorite.
When I lived in California for college, I couldn’t find a bakery that sells these cookies within reasonable distance. Even with Caputo’s here in Chicagoland, it’s a no-show. I found myself craving them one day, so I asked the internet for a recipe and found one with good results. Before I tell you the recipe, here’s a brief history of the cookie (thanks to wiki because it’s super reliable):
Rainbow cookies are brightly colored almond-based sponge cakes layered with raspberry jam and apricot jam with a chocolate coating. They originated in Italian communities in the United States around the 1900s as a homage to the communities’ heritage. Depending on the locality, the variety of cookies are also known as Napoleon Cookies, Seven Layer Cookies/Cake, Venetian Cookies, Tricolor Cookies, and Italian Flag Cookies.
I used this recipe as reference, but I tweaked it a little according to my preference. I didn’t have any almond paste on hand, so I substituted it with almond filling and almond extract. Almond filling is softer than almond paste, so it’s much easier to incorporate with the dough and adds an extra degree of moistness to the sponge cakes. I didn’t think it was necessary to separate the egg yolks and whites, but I suppose you should if you’re into doing things the proper way for a more delicate cake. As you can probably tell by now, this recipe is somewhat labor intensive. If you prefer to bake late at night, like myself, and are used to 15 minute to 2 hour cookie recipes, then it can be frustrating to work with the dough. Otherwise it’s all about waiting patiently. It’s well worth the wait. Believe me. Achievement will be unlocked.
Rainbow Cookies
Ready in 10 hours & 30 minutes. Serves about 96.
Ingredients
- 1 cup almond filling or 8 ounces almond paste
- 1 cup butter, softened
- 1 cup white sugar
- 4 eggs
- 3/4 teaspoon almond extract
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- Red gel food coloring
- Yellow gel food coloring
- Green gel food coloring
Layer Filling
- 1/4 cup seedless red raspberry jam
- 1/4 cup apricot jam (optional)
Coating
- 1 cup semisweet chocolate chips
- 2 tablespoons butter, softened
- 1/4 cup heavy cream, room temperature
Directions
- Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line three 9″x13″ baking pans with parchment paper.
- In a large bowl, cream almond filling together with butter, sugar, eggs, and almond extract. When the mixture is fluffy and smooth, stir in flour to form a dough.
- Divide dough into three equal portions. Mix one portion with red gel food coloring, one with yellow gel food coloring, and the last portion with green gel food coloring. For bolder colors, be generous with the coloring (6 squeezes or more each). Spread each portion into one of the prepared baking pans.
- Bake 10-12 minutes in the preheated until lightly browned. Carefully remove from pan and parchment paper, and cool completely on a wire rack.
- Place green layer onto a piece of plastic wrap large enough to wrap all three layers. Spread green layer with raspberry jam and top with yellow layer. Spread yellow layer with apricot jam (or another 1/4 cup raspberry jam) and top with pink layer.
- Transfer layers to a baking sheet and enclose with plastic wrap. Place a heavy cutting board on top of wrapped layers to compress. Chill in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.
- Remove plastic wrap. Top with melted chocolate coating and refrigerate for 1 hour or until chocolate is firm. Trim edges for show-worthy cookies. Slice into squares and serve.
The original recipe called for just melting the semisweet chocolate chips and spreading it over the cakes. Instead, I aimed for a softer coating that was easier to cut with less breakage. If you choose for a firmer chocolate coating rather than a ganache, dip a knife into hot water before each cut, wiping off the knife with a towel so it’s still hot, not wet.
To Prepare Chocolate Coating
- Use a saucepan and heat up butter until melted.
- Add heavy cream, mix, and let it heat up until steaming, not boiling.
- Remove from heat and add chocolate chips and let it sit for a few minutes.
- Gently whisk together until incorporated.
If you choose to work with almond paste (8 oz) rather than almond filling, grate the paste into the batter to make it easier to incorporate. You can also break up almond paste in warm/hot melted butter for a smoother cake. Otherwise you can buy canned almond filling, located near the pie fillings in your local bakery aisle. If you happen to have blanched almonds lying around, here’s a simple recipe to make your own:
Almond Filling
Prep time: 15 minutes. Yields 1 cup.
Referenced from “1001 Cupcakes, Cookies & Other Tempting Treats” by Parragon Books Ltd. Consultant Editor: Susanna Tee
Ingredients
- 1 cup blanched almonds
- 1/2 cup powdered sugar
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
- 1/2 teaspoon almond extract
- 1 large egg white, lightly beaten
Directions
- Place almonds, sugar, and butter into a food processor.
- Process until almonds are finely ground, scraping bowl as necessary.
- Add almond extract and 2 tablespoons of beaten egg whites. Process until mixed.
- Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Will be good up to a week.
Store cookies in an airtight container. They’ll dry out in the fridge, so store them at room temperature away from direct sun and any major heat source for up to three days. Any longer and you may end up with a pretty, slightly crumbly rock. So, rule of thumb: bake fresh to eat sooner than later, or freeze it in an airtight container and let it thaw to room temperature.
As for food coloring, because I was totally talking about food coloring before storage directions-not really, I prefer using gel for their intense color and longer shelf life rather than their water-based counterparts. You don’t have to use too much for a nice color, which is awesome for candies, frostings, and macaroons where the amount of liquid is important for the final recipe. If you’re anti-corn syrup, which some gel food coloring is based, that or glycerine, then here are 8 Ways to Make Organic Food Coloring. Also, here’s more information about food coloring because it’s fun to know this stuff.
…And if you’re curious about the difference between jam, jelly, and preserves, this will clear things up.
Enjoy this little slice of New York City!
– KmA